WINTERTHUR, DE (September 6, 2023) – In advance of a landmark exhibition about her artistry, the search for more gowns created by American couturier Ann Lowe is already meeting with success.
Winterthur Museum, Garden & Library has gathered nearly 40 examples of Ann Lowe’s work from both private and institutional collections for Ann Lowe: American Couturier, which will run from September 9, 2023, to January 7, 2024.
This is the largest exhibition of Ann Lowe’s work to date, featuring some gowns that have never been on public display, and it will illuminate her evolution as a designer from the 1920s to the 1960s. While she was known in her day among the debutantes, heiresses, actresses, and society brides for whom she designed couture gowns, she has remained virtually unknown to the wider public.
“But with a recent resurgence in interest in Lowe, in part because of the upcoming exhibition, there has been hope that more examples of Lowe’s work will be discovered,” said Elizabeth Way, associate curator at The Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology and guest curator of the exhibition.
Ann Lowe had a prolific career from the 1910s until her retirement in 1972. Her work graced hundreds, if not thousands, of American women during this time. Research on Lowe carried out by dedicated scholars, writers, and collectors has only begun to uncover the many Lowe clients and their descendants who retain her designs. However, clothing is a category of material culture that is often lost over time, and many more Ann Lowe dresses exist today only in photographs, said Kim Collison, Curator of Exhibitions at Winterthur.
Some of Lowe’s work may be languishing at the back of closets or in attics, and their owners or those who have inherited these dresses may not be aware of their importance and of their maker’s impact on American fashion, Collison said. While some of Lowe’s work bears her name, other pieces are unlabeled or include labels of those for whom she worked, including Madeleine Couture, A. F. Chantilly, and The Adam Room, Saks Fifth Avenue.
Individuals have already graciously shared their stories, photographs, and dresses related to Ann Lowe. Elinor Boushall, a descendant of the Lee family, who were Lowe’s earliest clients in Tampa, Fla., recently brought a dress and jacket to Winterthur for textile conservators to assess. While staff could not definitively attribute the ensemble to Lowe, the complex cut lace technique seen on both pieces was frequently used by Lowe in her designs, Collison said.
In another instance, Jennifer Bradley shared a photograph of her mother, Judy Thompson, posing with other young women for their 1958 debut. At the time, elite young women who reached maturity were presented to society at a formal “debut,” hence the word debutante. For this memorable event, Thompson wore a white and red lace gown designed by Ann Lowe and recently donated it to The Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology.
Stories and photos like these will be highlighted in a display at the exhibition about “previously unknown” and “recently rediscovered” Lowe items. Way and Collison hope the exhibition and accompanying publication of the same title will bring to light more of Lowe’s work. Lowe’s work and legacy will also be celebrated at a symposium scheduled to be held at Winterthur on October 20 and 21.
Those who have gowns, images, or other information regarding Lowe’s work are invited to share it with Winterthur by sending an email to LoweResearch@Winterthur.org.
Special Event
A special “Evening at Winterthur” will be held from 5:30 pm to 7:30 pm on Friday, September 5.
Visitors will have private access to the Lowe exhibit, including an exclusive tour led by Elizabeth Way, exhibition guest curator and associate curator at the Museum of the Fashion Institute of Technology. Afterward, visitors will mingle at the Reflecting Pool while they are treated to live music, a cocktail, and light fare.
There will also be a pop-up jewelry shopping experience with Tony Perrin of Lock and Key Design and a live demonstration of hand embroidery by artist Emily Bach as she creates a piece inspired by one of Lowe’s dresses.
Copies of the new book Ann Lowe: American Couturier will be available for purchase and for signing by Elizabeth Way.
Event cost: $65; $60 for Winterthur members.
For information, call 800.448.3883 or visit Winterthur.org/AnnLowe.
This exhibition is made possible through support from the Terra Foundation for American Art, the Coby Foundation, Ltd., and the National Endowment for the Humanities.
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ABOUT WINTERTHUR MUSEUM, GARDEN & LIBRARY
Winterthur—known worldwide for its preeminent collection of American decorative arts, naturalistic garden, and research library for the study of American art and material culture—offers a variety of tours, exhibitions, programs, and activities throughout the year. Admission includes an introductory house tour, exhibitions, a narrated tram ride (weather and space permitting), and the Winterthur Garden.
Winterthur is located on Route 52, six miles northwest of Wilmington, Delaware, and five miles south of U.S. Route 1. Winterthur is committed to accessible programming for all. For information, including special services, call 800.448.3883 or visit winterthur.org.
Press Contact: Jason Brudereck
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